#158 | Log off for serendipity (and how to travel with ChatGPT)
Tirana, Albania
Today, I write from Tirana, Albania. Not since the French Alps have I climbed like I did yesterday. And at the top of the hills, which rest above the city, the storms darkened my headwind-laden descent into the capital. The clouds broke overnight and have cleared: today I'm met with beauty. According to the posters, Tirana is the youth capital of Europe. It's also got the third fastest-growing population, plus the country's economy is booming. Given the congestion, crowds and construction, growth is palpable. Even better, my good friend Hector H has joined me for some time offline. Where shall we explore in the city? ChatGPT has helped me plan, and I thought I would explain how I use it to travel. I hope this helps you on your adventures.
There’s a magnificent Peep Show moment when Mark is waiting for his (late) date to arrive. He slides open his phone — pre-iPhone days — and thinks, “Still, got the phone, you’re never alone with a phone…” At that moment, people from the table next to him look with pity, but he doesn’t strike conversation: he looks down, and pretends to scroll his contacts — the moment is dead cold. No, "Hey, how are you?" or, "She's late lol!" Because of the distraction, Mark carries negative serendipity.
Even so, travelling is super easy with an iPhone. Every place I visit is new to me, yet I am never lost; I am never bored because I can discover interesting things to do. It’s true that tools, like ChatGPT, give us recommendations which would be hard to unearth online. It's also true that we can be like Mark. How, then, can we best use these tools?
Practically, ChatGPT recommends things to do. But when we ask “What shall I do in Tirana?” GPT will deliver a distillation of all of the Time Out listicles written for tourists (now written by GPT, ironically). "What shall I do?" is the wrong question. I want to visit places that tourists don't: where the cool people hang. But, again, you can’t just ask “Where do cool people go?” It’s better to ask, as I now do, “What is the Broadway Market / Stoke Newington of Tirana?” (Note: turn off the Bing auto-browsing mode on ChatGPT).
This works a treat — in Tirana, it’s: “The "Blloku" (or "The Block") area... During the communist era, this area was reserved for the political elite and was off-limits to ordinary citizens. After the 1990s, it transformed into a lively district, full of cafes, bars, restaurants, shops, and boutiques.”
By comparison, in Belgrade the equivalent response is Savamala: “…one of Belgrade's oldest districts, which has undergone a resurgence in the past decade. With its old buildings, graffiti art, cultural hubs, and nightclubs, Savamala has become a focal point for the city's youth, artists, and cultural enthusiasts.” I have been to Savamala and it has excellent vibrations — truly, they are astonishing.
Next, it’s good to ask what someone famous would do or visit. Until the AI gets to know us supremely well, it’s helpful to peg our search to someone well-known as a good tourist online. Being cool in a non-arrogant way is a bonus. By “good tourist”, I mean somebody who wants to discover food and culture, while avoiding the very obvious things (Madam Taussauds, Trafalgar Square).
For me, Tyler Cowen fits my "good tourist" criteria. So does Rick Rubin, who is cooler, and Cheryl Strayed, who’s more adventurous. The responses — which I include in full in the footnotes — send me to Era Resturant (excellently reviewed on Google), Charl’s Bistro for live music (the food, however, is crap), and Grand Park of Tirana for a hike (shorter than the PCT)1.
Even so, nothing yet beats just going to places and sitting and waiting for the universe to serve up some portion of chance. This then begs the question: where do we sit and wait? So far, in my time in the Balkans, it's clear that a kafana is the best place to let serendipity undress.
What is a kafana? Every time I cross a border — as I did yesterday — I carry a slight sense of nerves. My passport is stamped, and I wonder: what will this country be like? can I wild camp, or will the dogs hound me? will the police take issue? While every country has its nuances, in the Balkans a happy consistant has been the Serbian kafana, Croatian kavana, Bosnian kahvana, Macedonian kafeana and — now — the Albanian kafeneja.
These kafanas — local bistros — are each unique: MacDonaldisation is still decades away. They broadly match the Serbian kafana I visited in Vranje, an industrial city surrounding towering grain silos in the south. Imagine: wood-panelled walls with wood-carved art, a low cream ceiling hanging two pendulous orange lamps, a bar in the corner, stacked with glasses and coffee cups; blue cigarette smoke hovers at chest height; three tables fill the space, each with three stools; on each table is an ashtray and paper napkins. Per Wikipedia, in unusually flamboyant style: ‘Kafana is stereotyped as a place where sad lovers cure their sorrows in alcohol and music, gamblers squander entire fortunes, husbands run away from mean wives while shady businessmen, corrupt local politicians and petty criminals do business.’
With any stereotype, there are the roots of truth buried perhaps not so deep. So into this stereotypical kafana I walk in — and I have walked into dozens of them. Men (runaway husbands?) stare2. I take a seat in the corner, open my book, and order cevapi. “Hey man! Come join us.” I do join, and we spend a wonderful evening discussing life in Vranje, China, America, Trump and the mafia. No matter my prompt, GPT couldn’t point me here. I wouldn't it to.
I asked GPT to summarise my chat referencing Tyler Cowen, Rick Rubin and Cheryl Strayed. Hilariously, it’s come up with a two-day plan “Tyler’s Day”, and “Rick and Cheryl’s Day” — Included here but unless you're actually going to Tirana, it’s of limited use to you.
Day 1: Cultural Immersion & Gastronomic Delights (Tyler's Day)
Morning:
* Historical Dive: Start at the National History Museum to grasp the diverse layers of Albania's past. Appreciate the rich tapestry of cultures, influences, and historical events that have shaped modern-day Albania.
* Market Exploration: Head over to Pazari i Ri (New Bazaar). Browse through the various food stalls, savor local produce, and indulge in some local delicacies. Engage with vendors to understand the nuances of daily life and the market's economic pulse.
Lunch:
* Enjoy a meal at Mullixhiu, a must-visit for Tyler, offering a modern twist to traditional Albanian dishes.
Afternoon:
* Stroll around Blloku. Once a restricted area, now it's a hub of activity with a mix of old and modern architecture. Look out for its vibrant street art and explore its trendy cafes.
* Stop at a local coffee shop and observe the daily rhythms of Tirana, reflecting on its post-communist transformation.
Evening:
* For a musical treat, head to Radio Bar for live music. While this might be more Rick's scene, Tyler might appreciate the intersection of culture, sound, and urban vibes of modern Tirana.
Day 2: Musical Resonance & Soulful Walks (Rick & Cheryl's Day)
Morning:
* Begin with a reflective walk in Grand Park (Parku i Madh). Let Cheryl's spirit of introspection guide you as you soak in the serene surroundings by the artificial lake.
* Continue your nature immersion with a trip to Dajti Mountain. Opt for a hike or take the cable car, but ensure you relish the panoramic vistas of the city and its outskirts.
Lunch:
* Head back to the city and find a traditional "çajtori" (teahouse) for a light lunch and maybe pen down some reflections or engage in conversations, cherishing Cheryl's love for narratives.
Afternoon:
* Dive into Albania's complex past by visiting Bunk'Art. Let its blend of art and history evoke emotions, insights, and reflections.
* Embrace the evening with Rick's musical soul. Venture to the Tirana Jazz & Blues Club for an early performance. Absorb the authentic sounds, and let the rhythm of jazz and blues transport you.
Evening:
* Conclude your Tirana experience at Hemingway Tirana. While it's a blend of all three personalities – with occasional live music sessions, a great ambiance for introspection, and a window into Tirana's nightlife – it's the perfect place to reminisce about the past two days.
This itinerary blends the cultural curiosity of Tyler Cowen, the musical passion of Rick Rubin, and the introspective nature of Cheryl Strayed into a two-day immersive experience in Tirana. Enjoy!
It’s also true that people in the Balkans, like in much of Eastern Europe, smile less at strangers — they have not adopted the American grin. This is not unfriendly; in fact, the sterner the face at introduction the warmer the hospitality. It must be some kind of deep cultural difference.